per supertopo: V C3 5.11a
Smaller Sandstone equivalent to El Cap's Shield. 5 low angle free (or C1) pitches followed by 4 vertical aid pitches. Not pitons allowed so bring your clean gear and your A game.
Submitted by: claramie on 2006-07-04
Route ID: 77916
Great free climbing down low, awesome exposure up high.
I climbed this with friend who is an exceptional aid climber. So we climbed in blocks. I free climbed the first 5 pitches. And the second day He climbed the 4 Aid Pitches. Great Bivy spot, but bring a bivy sack to zip the critters out of your sleeping bag.
This route is truly spectacular! The first half of the route has very good freeclimbing up to 5.11a with some great splitter cracks. After the free pitches you do a very exposed bolt ladder around an arete and onto the amazing headwall. The next two pitches are long and pretty sustained. A double set of HB offsets is very helpful. Include the very smallest and expect many moves in a row over tiny gear. A loweball was also extremely helpful for the crux near the top of the second difficult headwall pitch. These two pitches are amazingly exposed and make for a world class experience. There is a final short pitch to the top of the wall that has one or two moves of C2. rap the route.