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Routes : North America : United States : Utah : St. George : Zion National Park : Fang Wall area : Lovelace IV 5.10 C2 or 5.12 (aka Fang Wall)

Lovelace IV 5.10 C2 or 5.12 (aka Fang Wall) - 5.10c A2+

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Ascends the obvious, striking crack system behind the Fang spire on East Temple. Climb 9 pitches up the ever widening crack to the top. This excellent route offers some of the best rock in Zion. Beta from Dave Jones: For the most fun on this route, fix to the top of the aid (5.12c) pitch, then come back the next day and leave your aiders and most nuts behind. The 2nd to last pitch bombay chimney is a MUST DO and is not nearly as hard as it looks. Descent: rap the route. FA: Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983 FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey in 1995 (Important: You need 3 ropes to fix to the top of the aid pitch. There's a 5.7 choss pitch getting to the 1st real pitch.)

Submitted by: powerandrubber on 2008-04-10
Views: 684
Route ID: 50756

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: buju on 2008-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars AWESOME

if this were in the canyon, it would be a classic! only do the first 6 puitches though...

Added: 2008-04-03