Climbs up the center of the strikingly beautiful 'Forbidden Wall', following a singular thin line. When established, this route was A5 by definition of the groundfall potential from 120 feet up, going from RURPS to two or three hook moves in a row. Using only RURPS this was definitely A5, but this route may go much easier with birdbeaks. The original topo I filed with the park shows the exact number of bolts I used. The second ascent attempt aborted after the first pitch and I have reason to believe that at least a few extra bolts were added; if so, this would greatly reduce the seriousness of the climb. It took me 6 hours to lead the first pitch, and there were multiple placements equalizing loads between RURP placements, all of this flirting with groundfall.
Submitted by: dmckj on 2004-09-26
Route ID: 59933