Cams up to 6 inch, and a few small stoppers for pitch 1
Take the second drainage on your left as you walk North from the Grotto bridge. Follow the drainage until a faint trail goes left (South) and follows cairns up to the wall. Coke Explosion is the crescent shaped climb and the first "pitch" is a 30 foot 5.6 to gain the ledge or ypu can walk around on a narrow ledge. Pitch two (110 feet) goes up a right trending crack (some face climbing reqired) that has a roof/flake about 80 feet up, do not start on the right most crack. Pitch 2 (100 feet) starts with a lieback to a 6 inch offwidth (crux) and then turns into some real nice 5.8 jamming. Pitch 3 (140 feet) starts in squeeze chimney/face climbing (bolt was added) and then hits a pillar with a handcrack and finally steps left into another more engaging squeeze chimney (5 inch) to finish up the route. Guide said 5.10, but it is more like sustained 5.9 with alot of variety.
Rappel with double ropes from a tree at the top to pitch 3 belay chains and then rap 190 feet from belay 3 to 1.
Submitted by: douglaskinsman on 2010-04-20
Route ID: 104451
Great route lots of fun climbing and some exciting face holds and lots of good jamming Doubles to 4 or 5 camalot and one # 6 is nice in the offwidth section the third pitch could be cut in two to reduce rope drag belaying off # 1 and 2 camalots at the base of the short right facing corner dont let the pg rating scare you off this is a good well protected route
The first real pitch is a different style than most desert climbing, has some face moves. Watch the sandy pro coming out of the first third pitch squeeze chimney, someone added a bolt to decrease the neckiness.