The routes first pitch is shared with The Thanksgiving Route 5.10 (a.k.a. Dark Side of the Sauce) From the bowl climb traverse right on good ledges, climb through a pocket into face climbing at 5.10 with stems and delicate face climbing, mantle onto ledge at bottom of chimney. Belay from a ledge with a bolt and natural pro if desired. The second pitch climbs stemming, but in stead of continuing into the “Cold Beverage OW,” traverse left, good pro in a corner lead to a mantle on to a ledge, clip a bolt and continue a short hand crack to the “Maid in the Shade” belay ledge. This pitch is mostly slabby face climbing and frees at 5.10. The third pitch climbs a large overhung flake with many good hand jams laybacks with good feet. This pitch has a lot of wide crack and goes at 5.10 or C1. One can rappel from here to the ground. The fourth pitch has two variations, the direct dihedral finish is 5.10+ or continue left at 5.5 and belay a fifth pitch of overhung 5.10- hand crack, belay from two bolts at the top of the direct finish. The route can be rappelled in two rappels.
Submitted by: funk29 on 2002-12-12
Route ID: 28411
t is funny you said your high point anchor was at a stupid place, because i have often looked over at it and wondered, why you didn’t put the bolts on the face?...I guess if the chimney goes the chains will still stay...But its hard eh?... sound cool i am running out of time though. What are you doing next week, I might be driving back to PA through grand junction Friday or so… may be i will drive straight through...I got to get back to work on \"Maggie’s Farm.\"
Jehovah Jireh, m Barley
p.s. try my four/five pitch route Jehovah Jireh take some pins there are some fixed one I didn’t get too...I freed the first pitch(5.10) last week, but it needs some bolts if you don’t have pins...There is something special about free climbing with pins and a hammer. The second is about the same and needs another bolt, and the third is the crux, 5.11ish. take some big stuff for this pitch.