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Routes : North America : United States : Utah : St. George : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : SPECIAL SAUCE III 5.10a A0 or 5.10R

SPECIAL SAUCE III 5.10a A0 or 5.10R -

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Troy Anderson
G
4
cams, quick draws, two etriers
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

this route is visible on the right side of south fork, 200 yards (east) of Rooster Pinnacle. It is the only pinnacle viewed from the parking lot. It takes about 7 minutes to get to the base. The first pitch climbs friction past two bolts and a pin (The pin has since fallen out, plug a cam instead after one more sketchy move)to "the sidewalk". Walk the ledge,right, for about 50 feet to some anchors. The second pitch climbs up the face, past two bolts to a thin flake. Don't be persuaded to climb right of the subanchors. After the flake, climb the three bolt bolt ladder (A0) then free climb to a natural belay, at the base of the chimney. The 5.10R free variation is after clipping the first bolt in the A0 section with a long sling, contiue up and to the left of the AO section, take medium to a large piece for this runout. Pitch three is the short pitch up to the top of "Suzi's Pillar." The fourth pitch is the goods. It climbs a good hand crack to a roof. Rappel the route. NOTE: The fixed pin on the first pitch is gone, it wiggled out in my fingers last time I climbed it. You can protect this part a little hicher (after a slab-mantle-type move) with a cam.

Submitted by: funk29 on 2003-01-23
Views: 1013
Route ID: 8578

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5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: funk29 on 2003-04-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

On Saturday I freed every pitch of special sauce. For the second pitch I climbed the finger crack and put a long runner on the first bolt of the aid section then went left from there. “What a scary pile of…!” I fell once and took the king swing, as I was un sure of the appropriate sequence, but mostly because I was scared…and couldn’t reverse the moves. On the second attempt I was a bit more adventurous and ventured even further left. I got to a spot with good feet and sloppy hands where I whaled a baby angle in on lead; it took about 15 minutes because I was so pumped that I could only get in a few taps before I would have to shake out again. With the baby angle in..(I really should have placed a bolt)… rotten rock I pulled a heady move to a small ledge. From there the route was some OW lovin… I thought the pitch might be around 5.10R…maybe 5.9…”the jury is still out.” I placed a bolt at the top of the second pitch to belay from….I hope you don mind….if you do you can funk it. I also contemplated placing one on my free variation…

Jehovah Jireh,
M Barley

Witnessed by: e Freden
Added: 2003-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: funk29 on 2002-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This is one of the best routes in the south fork, It consist of a great four pitches of moderate to easy adventure climbing. A fast party links pitch two and three.

Witnessed by: Chantel Thackeray
Added: 2002-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: funk29 on 2002-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Megan wouldnt bivy with me up here. She said, "I'm not that kind of girl matt." the pillar register needs a new tablet, there were so many beer cans up on Suzi's Pillar i think someone was must have been working the new "sitdown jummar start."

Witnessed by: Freden, and Megan Griffiths
Added: 2002-09-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rocknpowda on 2002-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Cool route! great last pitch off the top of the pillar. Some sick slab/sport climber could probably pull the A0 part free.

Added: 2002-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: funk29 on 2002-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This route is one of the best II lines in Kolob south fork.
I will definantly recomend this route.

This is the BEST zions appetizer i have ever had!!!
FRICTON SLAB
STRIAGHT FORWARD AID
SWEEET CHIMNEY
SPLITTER HAND CRACK

ROCK ON!!!!

Witnessed by: Ted Baker, and Shyanne Burr
Added: 2002-02-13