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Moonlight Buttress (C1) - 5.12d popular

Average Rating = 4.81/5 Average Rating : 4.81 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (41)
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2 sets of medium nuts 3 sets of yellow, orange (Mets) 2 BD cams w/more .5-.75 1 set RP's
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.64/5
  Rock Quality 4.73/5
  Scenery 4.73/5
  Fun Factor 4.73/5

Description:

10 pitches, 3 free, 7 C1/or 5.12. Haul after 3rd pitch! Rap from rocker block on top of pitch 3 and haul from base. no portaledge sleep on small ledge for two on P6 (? -more like one somewhat uncomfortably). All aid is C1 the roof is the crux. Lots of exposure! Just rebolted, not possible to link any two belay stations now.

Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-12-11
Views: 3564
Route ID: 487

Most Recent Photos (See all 16 photos)

41 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12d A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zcooky1 on 2014-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars zcooky1

Fantastic line up an even pertier wall! we freed the first 2 and aided the last 7, one day ill aspire to free it. .4 and .5 cams are rock stars for p4-p8! get er done!

Added: 2014-03-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A1
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: porkchop_express on 2012-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars first big wall

climbed it in a day with Rob-- awesome climb, led 4 pitches--finish is heads up on a 5.8 slab. a green alien allowed me to move up and right and aid the last move to the chains (watch rope drag--you think you are home free before this slab and when you realize whats happening you scramble for placements which may work against you, drag-wise!)

Added: 2012-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: peakchaser on 2010-10-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing

My first aid climb; freed the 1st 5.10 variation pitch and freed/french-aided the 2nd 5.10 pitch. Took on the bolt ladder that was fun and jugged the rest due to some traffic on the line (but not too bad...surprisingly).

Added: 2010-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sparky on 2008-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2009-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lightrack on 2009-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 600' of fingers!!!!!

what a route! lots of finger crack climbing! only lead fall was the first try on the dyno pitch....IC is perfect training for this one.

edit: andreas lead the technical crux, though i did onsight what was the crux for him on the previous attempt (.12- chimney), among others.

one of the best routes i have ever done imho
crossing the river was the crux for me

Added: 2009-05-21

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