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Rites of Passage - 5.11c

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Standard Desert Free rack, heavy on the #4, and at least doubles on the #5 Camalots, with a #6 throw
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This route starts about 60 meters to the LEFT of Shune's Buttress at the base of a beautiful steep right-facing dihedral. Follow wide, but beautiful and clean, cracks for two pitches, followed by a small overhang hand crack to a big ledge with death-looking looseness above. Belay at bolt at left. From ledge climb directly left across steep face past hard mantle crux (3 bolts, 5.11+ or 12-) and step left across to right facing stacked corners. At top of corners climb at first up right and then back left (5.11-, bolts) through a bit of mossy but solid rock then back right up steep and exposed face to two bolt belay. Traverse straight right from belay (5.8 R, no bolts) to gain base of beautiful fingers to hands crack and follow through steep rock to belay in cave. Follow two chimney pitches up and left to a final breakout onto a beautiful pinnacle ledge at base of splitter hand cracks that are followed one more full pitch to top. Descend Shune's rappels and don't get your ropes stuck. FA: Dave Jones and Geoff Scherr in the early 90's

Submitted by: dmckj on 2004-09-25
Views: 530
Route ID: 59869