One of the finest free routes in Zion. continuous difficulty, exposure, and great rock.
approach via bushy 5.6 ramp to the right or unprotected 5.9 direct. pitch 2: face climb left (.11a). climb left side of pillar until possible to move back right. belay on top of pillar. pitch 3: (.12b)climb beautiful "Black corner" many .5s, .75s, 1s. finish in the chimney and belay @ butt ledge. pitch 4: (.11a) long varied pitch starts somewhat broken, undercling out roof then nice fingers and hands to a hanging belay. pitch 5: (.10d)continue up hand and fist crack to hanging belay in large pod. pitch 6: (.12c or .10a) climb the "Monkeyfinger crack" on the left face (many .75, 1) or .10a OW to the right. belay at the Monkeyhouse ledge. pitch 7: jam strenuous slot to nice ledge up and right (.10d) pitch 8: face climb up and right until you can reach a handcrack. belay on another good ledge (.11a) pitch 9: climb broken, left facing corner to rim. (.10b) rap the route
Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-03-16
Route ID: 13650
Dragged up by Scotty. We aided the black corner and freed everything else. Super sustained! at around 10+. Varied climbing including fingers / thin hands / fist / offwidth / slab / sandbox-death-stem-chimney. Rack: triples to .75, double 1, triple 2, double 3, 3.5, 4, and a few HB offset nuts.