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Monkeyfinger (III) - 5.12c

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
double rack plus xtra TCUs and med. wires, 2 ropes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

One of the finest free routes in Zion. continuous difficulty, exposure, and great rock. approach via bushy 5.6 ramp to the right or unprotected 5.9 direct. pitch 2: face climb left (.11a). climb left side of pillar until possible to move back right. belay on top of pillar. pitch 3: (.12b)climb beautiful "Black corner" many .5s, .75s, 1s. finish in the chimney and belay @ butt ledge. pitch 4: (.11a) long varied pitch starts somewhat broken, undercling out roof then nice fingers and hands to a hanging belay. pitch 5: (.10d)continue up hand and fist crack to hanging belay in large pod. pitch 6: (.12c or .10a) climb the "Monkeyfinger crack" on the left face (many .75, 1) or .10a OW to the right. belay at the Monkeyhouse ledge. pitch 7: jam strenuous slot to nice ledge up and right (.10d) pitch 8: face climb up and right until you can reach a handcrack. belay on another good ledge (.11a) pitch 9: climb broken, left facing corner to rim. (.10b) rap the route

Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-03-16
Views: 973
Route ID: 13650

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: bandidopeco on 2009-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nearly onsight

all but the monkey fingers pitch, and followed pitches cleanly. (it would be nice if multi-pitch routes could be broken up into pitches)

Added: 2009-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jreyher on 2007-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

I lead the 2 crux pitches and had to hang on both of them. I'd love to go back and send this route.

Added: 2008-04-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: incubi81 on 2004-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Monkeyfinger

Lead all the pitches onsight with Erik P.

Added: 2007-02-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: glahhg on 2006-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars :)

Dragged up by Scotty. We aided the black corner and freed everything else. Super sustained! at around 10+. Varied climbing including fingers / thin hands / fist / offwidth / slab / sandbox-death-stem-chimney. Rack: triples to .75, double 1, triple 2, double 3, 3.5, 4, and a few HB offset nuts.

Added: 2006-11-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: crackmd on 2004-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

need to work the black corner. awesome route. very sustained. mostly good rock. reach move up high need bolt replaced.

Witnessed by: butofcourse
Added: 2004-11-06

... Read all 8 ascent notes