single set of cams green alien to 3 inches, quick draws, slings, nuts
In the Kung Fu Theater, just right of Inner Chi. This is an excellent mixed route. Find a left facing corner about 50 ft right of Inner Chi. There is a roof about 90 ft overhead. About 20 ft up the corner is the route crux 10+. A pin scar takes a poor cammed out yellow alien. A yellow red offset would likely protect this well.Follow the corner about 45 ft to the first of four bolts. After the second bolt, gear (#3 camalot and medium nut. Two more bolts to anchor. 110 ft Pitch 2. Follow good holds on a vertical face with friable rock past bolts (7?). Move right into crack and follow this to anchor. Several mid sized cams needed in crack. 90 ft. 5.9 Pitch 3 Make committing slab moves to first bolt 5.8 pg/r. Meander up slab past bolts, sling a tree, use a cam or two, passing two minor slab cruxes to anchor--5.10 150 ft. Pitch four. Make a few committing moves (10A) off belay to bolt. Head right into a crack and follow this to another bolt. Pull over lip to tower top. 70 ft.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-03-25
Route ID: 108190