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Chastity crack - 5.11c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
G
3
cams nuts offset HB
400
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

approach from behind shuttle maintenance. Head up wash to point below face. Chastity crack is obvious as a pillar with a dihedral. First pitch right facing dihedral with hand size crack to ledge. 70 ft. 3/4 camalot to # 4. Second pitch. large dihedral with hand size crack to roof. Traverse left on face holds to splitter crack and another 30 ft to anchors. 100 ft. At the second anchor there are two options. I went left because I could see anchors. I could not see them right. Make a few 5.10 face moves to a 3/4 camalot crack. follow this 20 ft to a ledge, make a few tough finger size moves to a slot that accepts # 3 and 4 camolot. Above this, pleasant climbing to a hand size slot where the crack becomes a seam. There is a piton 8 ft up. Make a few face moves to good feet and clip the piton. This can be backed up with a good #6 HB offset. Above, make harder moves into a thin hand jam, and a slot above. place marginal pro and make the last few moves to the anchor. 130 ft.

Descent Options:

Rappel with two ropes. take care with the first rappel. I left a rope attached at the anchor.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2012-03-23
Views: 334
Route ID: 110865

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I did the left line. The right line is described in the guide

The left line crux was face in a seam. I thought it was mid 11. rope solo

Added: 2012-03-23