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Liberty Crack - 5.12a

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Route sequence (left to right): 4
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This is the short roof crack pictured on the cover of the Robb Ogden guide. The first known ascent of this was on July 4th 2006, hence the name. Do a short 50 foot scramble up to a ledge/stance about 15 feet below the roof - 4th/easy 5th class. I believe this is on route to "The Thing." Set up the belay here. Just right of the "Thing," climb up easy/moderate dihedral to the base of the finger splitter through the roof. This is kind of an awkward stance on a ledge. Wiggle in a couple finger size pieces 1/2 to 1.25 inches and crank through the 4 or 5 overhanging moves. Thin hands pieces are helpful over the lip. There is no anchor, after successfully getting established over the lip and gaining the top of the wall, down-climb and down-aid to retrieve your gear.

Descent Options:

1 set of cams from .5 to 3" to build belay and get started up the route. The roof part requires a few extra finger and thin-hands sized pieces.

Submitted by: fancypants on 2006-10-06
Last Modified: 2010-05-27
Views: 343
Route ID: 80177