Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Weber-Davis Counties : SchoolRoom Wall : 10 Main Schoolroom Wall : Shiny Demon ***
Previous
Shiny Demon *** - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Probably Mike Anderson
Rock
Bolts + Gear to 1"
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
FA: Mike Anderson / Great position, great jams, and great rock. This outstanding crack splits the upper headwall right of Rocketsauce. Climb Rocketsauce (11c) up to the ledge at the 8th bolt then head right on finger locks and underclings in the beautiful crack. It can be done in one push, but a midway belay on the slab would significantly reduce rope drag and increase enjoyment.
Submitted by: fancypants on 2005-10-28
Views: 655
Route ID: 24154
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
And he said, "Play the best song in the world or I'll eat your soul."
This is about as good as crack climbing gets in Ogden. If Rocketsauce (11c) dissuades you because of its difficulty (and it is polished, committing and stout) then maybe you could start up Creamgenes (10d) to the left and build a belay midway. It is probably possible to aid through the crux of Creamgenes (the flare at the bottom) and keep the whole route at sustained 5.9 with only a few points of aid.
Added: 2008-12-12
