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Shiny Demon *** - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Probably Mike Anderson
Rock
Bolts + Gear to 1"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

FA: Mike Anderson / Great position, great jams, and great rock. This outstanding crack splits the upper headwall right of Rocketsauce. Climb Rocketsauce (11c) up to the ledge at the 8th bolt then head right on finger locks and underclings in the beautiful crack. It can be done in one push, but a midway belay on the slab would significantly reduce rope drag and increase enjoyment.

Submitted by: fancypants on 2005-10-28
Views: 567
Route ID: 24154

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: prodigal_son on 2008-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars And he said, "Play the best song in the world or I'll eat your soul."

This is about as good as crack climbing gets in Ogden. If Rocketsauce (11c) dissuades you because of its difficulty (and it is polished, committing and stout) then maybe you could start up Creamgenes (10d) to the left and build a belay midway. It is probably possible to aid through the crux of Creamgenes (the flare at the bottom) and keep the whole route at sustained 5.9 with only a few points of aid.

Added: 2008-12-12