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The Hard Way - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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FA Nick Goldsmith, rope solo, cleaning and drilling on the lead 7/22/07. FFA Isa Oehry and Nick Goldsmith 7/29/07.
Rock (Trad)
G
1
partially bolted. Need cams to protect sketch R sections inbetween. Probably better for an intermediate or advanced leader. Be sure to clip second bolt if unsure; you WILL deck otherwise.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Steep face climbing up the left edge of the lower tier. Bolts in place, additional gear needed (cams). Alternatively, you may climb out left on the overhanging arette for a pumpy exciting finish. Depending on your line it could be a 10 or 10+. Slopers and razor edges are your friends.

Submitted by: gaalsent on 2008-07-11
Views: 418
Route ID: 94706

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars odd

I believe that both comments below meant to warn about not blowing it clipping bolt #3. The first two bolts are just off the deck well below (and right) of #3. There is also a piton below #1. We used it to protect getting off the deck to #1.

With no disrespect to Nick or the "ground up" ethic, I felt that the bolting scheme was off. Bolt #3 seems unnecessarily run out and too far left (creating a fall zone over the boulder on the left side of the deck should a leader fall at #4). #3 would have been more desirable as a roof bolt a few feet to the right, but then no one in their right mind would tap out a roof bolt on lead with a manual drill. #5 seemed way too far left (I suppose it is there to give the arete option referred to in the description and in the Tough Schist guide book (it seemed well overgrown and contrived to me). #6 causes bad rope drag (combined with #5). The anchors are strangely placed far to the right of the jumble of rocks above #6. The climb is over at #6. IMO, the anchors ought to have been placed where #6 is and call the climb over. I suppose that people may like the anchor location since you can set up a top rope by hiking above them. If this is the case, then the whole last half of the route ought to have been out on the face going directly to the anchors.

Again, no offense intended. I just felt that decent rock climbing was lowered in quality by the bolting scheme placed on lead.

Added: 2013-07-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: orangechair27 on 2009-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb!

Love the footwork of the climb...short but pumpy

Added: 2009-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gaalsent on 2008-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars harder than it looks

cryptic start and essential to clip second bolt clean. otherwise decking WILL happen on a fall. Tons of fun if you are adventurous.

Added: 2008-07-11