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Ace of Diamonds

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About Ace of Diamonds :

This 50 to 70 foot crag is about a half mile south of Lincoln Gap Road, just outside of Warren Village. It is shaped like a diamond with an obvious crack running vertically for the entire climb. There are also numerous rusty pins located to the left of the seam. Due to the nature of the metamorphic rock, protection is available but can be from PG to R/X... Three tall Red Spruce Trees dominate the top of the crag - they could be used for top rope anchors, but the rope would most certainly contact the sharp flakes about halfway down where the climbs are overhanging. The first 10-15 ft are over-hang at about V3 - V9. The next 30+ ft is strenuous with many variations that range from 5.10 to 5.12.
Approach: From Watsfield/Warren: Drive South on Route 100. Cross the stream as close to crag as possible. Park in one of the two pullouts within a 10 minute walk of the crag.
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude: 44.07566, -72.85891
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Metamorphic
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Ace of Diamonds 5.11c 1