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Big Daddy Arete (5.8++) - 5.8

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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PG/ R- Mixed gear and bolts. Full rack from small Aliens and md. nuts to #3.5 Friend.
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Description:

Approach as for Easy Gully winter climbs, until it's possible to traverse left into thick woods (cairn) to gain the tree covered spur forming the left wall of Easy Gully. The top of this spur joins the right edge of the Easy Gully cliff. Begin at the base of a huge block resting against the cliff on the very crest of the tree-covered spur over which you scramble on the approach. From this point,you should be able to look left across the block and see a huge and obvious right facing corner. Just above and left of this corner is the striking arÍte for which the climb was named. P1 5.8+ (80ft.) Climb up the right side of the block, gaining the easy slab that comprises its top. Traverse straight left across the slab to the base of the huge right facing corner! Itís possible to belay here from small & midsized cams. Look out left on the blank and bottomless wall and locate a bolt. Climb improbably out over the void (wild!) past the bolt and around left to a fixed anchor at the base of the arÍte. P2 5.8+ (100ft.)- A gem. Climb directly off the belay to the obvious short right facing corner and deceptively steep arÍte and roof above. There is a fixed anchor tucked in an alcove on the right. Note: the fixed anchor beneath the roofs out left is off route. Descend via 2 raps with a single 60m cord. It is possible to join the upper part of The Deep End from the tree ledge atop this route.

Submitted by: rockytop on 2005-04-24
Views: 776
Route ID: 43901