Pitch 1, 5.10- Start at Elephants Head Crack, place a nut and traverse up right to your first bolt. Follow bolts up and around the right arete. Aim for a bolted belay. Pitch 2, 5.10 - Climb a large right facing corner on chossy rock up to a bolt (crux), then traverse right on slopers, to another bolt, then a bolted belay. Pitch 3, 5.11+ - Climb up a wild overhanging arete(crux1)( 3 bolts) into a shallow corner placing some gear. Follow the shallow crack/corner up and right to quartz crimps(crux2). Traverse back left moving around the arete to a dinnerplate-like hold (crux3). Go up and finish the bouldery topout crux (Height dependant). Pitch 4, 5.10 - Follow some bolts for a short pitch. OR Descend. Rap 15 ft from the top of pitch 3 down a ramp to another rap station. Rap from there with 60m doubles to the base of the climb.
Submitted by: eckov14 on 2006-05-10
Route ID: 76488
Went up with Rory Burke around 2pm and was back at The Shed in Stowe having beers at 6pm. Mindblowing exposure and though provoking climbing on friable rock make for a full experience! Thanks to Rory for the best belay in the western hemisphere!