At the right (East) edge of the South Slab proper are 2 Left-facing corners marking the edges of 2 of the layers of gneiss exfoliating from the crag. At the bottom, just right of a small tree covered in dead briars, the Right one has a nice crack in the dihedral but is covered in lichen. Stem up it and the slab to the right. Continue up the slab, past a thin horizontal crack, and back to the edge to your left. Fifty feet up, the edge steepens and juts out left. Step out left and pull up into the cracks, which lead up and right to a stout pine tree. Climb the slab above, and then protect in a right-facing corner capped with small bushes. Step up and right to another crack (more lichen), and go up to easy ground. Make your way up and left across the brushy area to the left-leaning finger crack that puts you on top. 5.6+, 60m
Scramble down and a bit right for 100ft. Do a 15ft rappel from a pine tree down a chimney to the ledge with rap links on static lines. A 2nd, diagonal, 100ft rappel puts you back at the base of the climb.
Submitted by: virginiapine on 2010-04-28
Route ID: 104576