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Limited Access Highway - 5.11c

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Start—Just left of One Lane Highway (Bird’s Nest area) Route—Climb the face and aręte left of One Lane Highway. Stay left of the One Lane Highway crack (the crack is off). Holds on the aręte and left of the aręte within a foot or so are on. Do not go around nearly as far as Shoulder of the Road. The route ends at the top of the One Lane Highway crack. Beta—Up to the horizontals at mid-height, the climbing is mostly on the One Lane Highway face with some hand holds on and around the aręte. The top half of the climb is on the aręte. First Ascent (top rope)—Mark Nord, October 2006 (after about four months of work). This should actually be described as the first currently known ascent. It is hard to believe that someone hasn’t climbed this rather obvious line at some time in the storied past of Great Falls climbing. Caution/Safety Note A fall from the first two moves (the crux) has serious ankle breaking and tailbone bashing potential. It already has one sprained ankle on its account. The safest toprope is off Shoulder of the Road, with the rope flipped around to the One Lane Highway face. This can be further improved by a directional consisting of a cam and short quick draw near the top of the One Lane Highway crack. Until you are certain of the opening moves, stretch the rope and take a snug belay.

Submitted by: overthehillclimber on 2006-10-25
Views: 637
Route ID: 80840