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Anonymous Flake Direct - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 21
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Trad, two bolts
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Climb the center of the slab to a bolt just as it becomes more vertical. Continue straight up to the underclinging flake. Move straight up to gain the flake and the next bolt. With the bolt in the center of your body continue up to a small undercling, using small holds on the right. The moves on the flake are thin with long reaches, stout moves at the listed grade unless you break right to easier climbing. After the undercling continue to the top. The large pine can be used as an anchor.

Descent Options:

Rappel from the large pine with a 70m rope of use the walk-off to the south of the climb.

Submitted by: climboard on 2006-06-06
Last Modified: 2013-06-21
Views: 1441
Route ID: 62834

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4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ubidubium on 2009-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Anonymous Flake Direct

Have to agree that this route was at the most a 5.9 with maybe a PG13 fall rating. Onsighted it using 2 bolts on the route- one below and one above the undercling flake (beware there are 2 side by side at about 40 feet, one of which on the right whose hanger is spinning) and slinging natural protection. Most fun climb of the day though there at Buzzard Rocks. The views are spectacular.



Added: 2009-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KeeblerO on 2009-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Anonymous Flake

This is more like a 5.9. The climb is slab until the last 25 or 30 feet. There are only two bolts on this route. You can sling a tree near the bottom for protection if you do not have any trad gear. There is also a Hueco you can sling about 25 feet up for protection. The first bolt is around 40ft. There are two bolts there, the left one looks brand new and the other one is a spinner. It is pretty obvious which one to use. From here it is about 15 feet to an undercling on the flake. The bolt itself is 20 feet above the first bolt. There are two bolts here as well. The right bolt looks much better than the left. Use the undercling on the flake to work up and right to clip. Great View!

Added: 2009-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jarekt on 2006-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Another great line, a little confusing after second bolt. The main line seem to go streight up from the bolt , turnig a little to the right. That seems to be a solid very thin 11a with crux about 5 ft above the bolt. People with no stomach for it can escape to the left to the easier ground on the edge of the wall. There seems to be an orphan bolt 5 ft to the right of the second bolt at about the same height. Different variation?

Added: 2006-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climboard on 2005-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Feels more like 5.10

Added: 2005-06-18