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Leading Should Feel This Way - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 3.93/5 Average Rating : 3.93 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Rock (Sport)
G
Bolted with possibly one piece of pro below the first bolt. Bolted anchors at top.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.27/5
  Rock Quality 3.58/5
  Scenery 2.64/5
  Fun Factor 4.38/5

Description:

Located under the big roof. 70 feet. FA on sport lead- Babak. Original route- 4 bolts plus anchor. The first bolt is fairly high up. Consider stick clipping the first bolt or placing a cam or tricam into the preceding horizontal crack. Once under the roof, traverse to the left until the obvious opening is located. Pull the roof here. Once over the roof there are two variations ending at the same anchor. To follow the original route, traverse to the right above the roof and follow the bolts. To climb the variant route, follow the bolts directly above where you came through the roof and finish at the anchor. On both routes there are two cruxes. One is pulling the roof and the other is clipping the anchor after a pumpy overhung climb. Hand holds for clipping at the bolts are good sized but because the rock is overhung after the roof you better clip fast before running out of juice. There are no good hand holds at the anchor. Failure to clip at the anchor means a 20' whipper into air. Top Roping is possible, but any fall means you'll have to start over due to the large overhang. Dangerous start - 1st bolt is about 20' up with sketchy holds and rocky bottom.

Submitted by: srwings on 2005-04-30
Last Modified: 2012-05-28
Views: 2662
Route ID: 65568

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17 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: beattyjo on 2012-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great jugs on the upper headwall.

Pulling the roof is the crux. The upper headwall is not too bad, big jugs. Kind of like "I like Big Jugs" but longer. The first bolt is a little high but not too bad. If you are thinking about leading this, then you shouldn't need to place anything before it.

Added: 2012-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Decepticons on 2012-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Lead

Led this at the beginning of the day when I was fresh. First bolt is scarily high (~15' or so), and second hanger bolt under the roof is loose, enough to swivel and cause heart palpitations. I would recommend pulling the roof on TR before trying this lead. Roof pull is solid with a heel hook, and the rest of the climb has great foot and hand holds but gets really pumpy towards the end. Had to hang on last bolt. Securing the anchors is really tough - do it quickly or you will get too tired.

Best route at the crag.

Added: 2012-06-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: girlclimb on 2012-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

Tr this one was going to lead it I'm short and I got a little nervous at the distance for the first two bolts. Fun climb non the less

Added: 2012-04-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars best route at crag

felt like mixing it up and did it barefoot. juggy, big reaches up moderate steepness.

Added: 2011-08-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dreday3000 on 2010-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

This is the only route i did at Elizabeth so I'm not sure if this common in the area but the chains on this route are pretty budget. Defiantly among the skimpiest I've seen in my 11 years of climbing.

The route itself is ok.

Added: 2010-07-19

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