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Not a Good First Lead - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
Mixed; 1 bolt. No bolted anchors at top, but there are some trees and large boulders back from the edge.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Climb through chimney with LOTS of loose rock to ledge, then head left and top out through break in roof. NOTE: This climb should not be top-roped. The route traverses so far that a fall near the bottom will result in a serious swing. It might be possible to place a directional piece near the middle, but that will result in a lot of rope drag. It also won't be easy to rig an anchor at the top that doesn't have a ton of rope-drag.

Descent Options:

Lowering is probably a bad idea. Suggest walking off from the top.

Submitted by: brake on 2005-09-02
Last Modified: 2012-05-28
Views: 1716
Route ID: 62450

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: beattyjo on 2012-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No loose rock

Did the first part of Big Balls (I guess). Then the final part of the route. Seemed most logical at the time. Doing it this way, it seemed more like 5.7/5.8. The upper part, although it looks hard, is quite easy (5.5). We walked off and rapped the Ascent Gully. Didn't find any loose rock, although it was a little dirty as mentioned in an earlier post.

Added: 2012-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cadaverchris on 2008-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ascent note

skip the chimney, climb the first part of "big balls" (3 bolts, 5.8) then follow ramp up and left (gear) to steep exit at break in lip.

can be a bit dirty. not much loose rock.



Added: 2008-06-11