About God Crag:
Contains the densest concentration of routes, mostly harder ones, at Old Rag. This is a complex area lying on several levels, so abbreviations are applied before the name of each route to denote which area the route is on, and (as for Sunset Walls) a range of sequence numbers is reserved for each area:
UG = Upper God's, the base of which is atop Middle God's (seq #'s 1-9);
MG = Middle God's, which lies above the north end of Lower God's & the north (right, when looking up from below) side of the Bushwhack Corridor (#'s 10-39);
PL = Patio Ledge, which is above the south (left) side of the Bushwhack Corridor (#'s 40-49);
LG = Lower God's, which includes the Bushwhack Corridor (#'s >=50)
|Approach:||Approaching from above:
Just a few meters north of where the Ridge Trail turns from going north/south to aiming west straight towards the summit (a 15-minute hike away), the trail goes along the west edge of a large gently-angled slab. Down at the southeast corner of the slab is a climber's trail heading east downhill, which quickly splits - stay to the right (the left fork goes to the base of the Whale's Lip ) and follow the trail steeply downhill. The first sidetrail to the right leads to the top of "Oh My God Corner".
Upper God's rises to the north - make your way down off to the left to reach its base, which also gives access to a pine tree with rappel slings almost directly above the "Praying Mantle" variation to "Scared Seamless" in Middle God's.
Further down the trail and slightly right is a steep gully, heading down straight ahead and sometimes festooned with a fixed rope, that leads to the Briar Ledge routes ("Housebroken", "The Untamed", etc) at the south end of Middle God's area. At the downhill north edge of Briar Ledge, a short scramble up leads to the ledge at the base of "Scared Seamless" and the rest of the Middle God's routes.
Approaching from below:
Go down the Bushwhack Trail (see the directions for The Reflector Oven area) and continue east downhill, along the base of the easy slab that leads up to Jabba the Hut. You'll then pass the short chimney on your left that goes up to the base of "Oh My God Dihedral" above, and then begin to note cracks and bolted routes above you (on your left). You'll come to a steep drop-off which the trail bypasses to the right - you'll need to clamber through/over a large dead (and barkless) tree, then head down steeply, and finally traverse back left. You are now at the base of the Lower God's area. Further downhill, the base of the crag turns northward and a deep gap opens in the cliff - the Bushwhack Corridor, which contains many hard routes, with the one's deeper in on the right topping out on Briar Ledge at the south end of Middle God's. A much easier way to reach Middle God's is to continue north along the base of Lower God's, passing "Short & Schweet", and over and down a gap. Now head uphill, the trail bending to the NW (left) for 35m until you can move left onto a narrow ledge (watch for briars!) which broadens out swiftly at the base of "Tombstone Shadow", at the north end of Middle God's. Continue left and go through a hole in the cliff (big briar patch!) to reach the "Alpenglow"/"Scared Seamless" section.
|Type of Climbing:||Trad|
|Sun Aspect:||Morning Sun|
|SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.||Rating||Route||Difficulty||Ascents|
|1||Oh My God Dihedral (2)||5.10c||19|
|12||MG: God Knows||5.11a||0|
|18||MG: Golden Shadows||5.9||0|
|19||MG: Pocketful of Lichen||5.9||2|
|20||MG: Scared Seamless||5.10c||4|
|21||MG: Praying Mantle||5.9||1|
|51||LG: Toothe 'n Nail||5.9||1|
|54||LG: Vanishing Act||5.12b||0|
|60||LG: Finger Four||5.12b||1|
|66||LG: holy trinity||5.11a||0|
|68||LG: Assemblage Point||5.11b||0|
|70||LG: Left Crack||5.11b||0|
|81||LG: Short and Schweet.||5.9||6|