Around the corner left from The Best Route, halfway up the cliff, is a large "bay" with some brush on its floor and a large roof in the middle of its back wall. The lefthand (North) corner of the bay is a beautiful, gently overhanging dihedral with gray rock on the right side and orange rock to the left. Approach by bushwhacking/tunneling for 100m through/under the laurels down from the Pedestal boulder, around a low brush-covered buttress below the bay, following an old climber's/deer trail, and then back up to the base of the wall at a great grassy belay alcove directly below the lefthand wall of the bay. Above is a little rib running up to the floor of the bay that has crack systems to either side. Either can be climbed but the lefthand one is REALLY fun (& complete with an ancient ring piton). Climb this, then a ramp below the bay's left wall (to avoid the brush), around a corner, and finally the great dihedral. Unfortunately one of the nice spots in the crack is occupied by an old fixed TCU. Belay just above the dihedral & 4th class up and right to the summit, or just continue up to belay on the summit.
The initial cracks can be done alone as a 5.6+ (15m) - a fixed nut & sling w. rap link exist atop it (but bring a backup!).
Submitted by: virginiapine on 2012-01-26
Route ID: 77051