About Sunset Walls:
Variety of trad, sport and TR routes up to 50 feet in length. Shortest approach (2.2 miles) to roped climbing on the mountain.
To place the climbs into the sections where they reside, I'm splitting the route numbering into blocks:
1-19 = Lower Sunset (LS) Wall
20-49 = Middle Sunset (MS) Wall
50-69 = Upper Sunset (US) Wall
etc., which gives enough room for current routes as well as future ones. I've also prefixed each route with the section in which it lies.
For the Lower Sunset Area, routes are listed from the upper (right-hand, when facing the ridge) end of the wall downhill to left. They all end on the wide ledge that is the base of Middle Sunset.
To reach the Middle Sunset Area, scramble up the gully on the upper right end of Lower Sunset Wall. Routes are listed from right to left (from the short classic Mosaic leftwards, downhill). From this approach you can see the Upper Sunset Area higher up to your right when facing the wall.
To get to Upper Sunset Area, scramble up into the cave at the righthand end of Middle Sunset and up through a narrow slot to the left out of the cave. Now work some distance around right, from boulder to boulder, and step through a wider notch to the Upper Wall, at the base of Upper Sunset Crack. Routes listed from right to left.
A bit more adventurous? Hike down and around the Middle Sunset Area and check out the routes on the backside. At least two overgrown slabby routes go up the backside over Gone Fishing. And further uphill, there is a nice block with at least three distinct line going up it with mixed pro. They all look to be 5.9 or harder from the ground - Caution: Anchors unknown at the top!
|Approach:||From the Berry Hollow parking, hike up the Saddle Trail toward the summit. 1/3 mile past the Old Rag Shelter, after squeezing past a 20+ foot-tall boulder on your left, you will come to a rock staircase. Halfway up, as the steps swing right, look for a cairn up on the left on a slab. Follow the cairns, traversing the hillside north and slightly upwards for 100m until you hit a ridge. Note: After the leaves come out in mid-May it will not be as easy to follow the cairns.
Now turn right and follow the base of the ridge and cairns uphill for another 100 meters until you come to a level break in the ridge. Go left through the break and traverse north on a distinct trail until you hit Lower Sunset Area. The climb The Arborist will be the alcove in front of you with a small tree growing out of it approx. 2m up.
|Access Issues:||The National Park Service has temporarily closed the Sunset Wall area to climbing because of Peregrine Falcon activity in the area. The Park Service is trying to encourage the raptors to return to their natural habitats, moving them out of urban and suburban environments. It is unclear if the birds are actually nesting in the area or just using Sunset as a roost. If no nesting activity is found the area could be reopened in the next few weeks, however if nests are located the area will remain closed until mid to late June. Please be respectful of the closure so that we can maintain our close relationship with the Park Service and their opinion of us as an asset.|
|Type of Climbing:||Sport/Trad|
|Sun Aspect:||Afternoon Sun|
|SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.||Rating||Route||Difficulty||Ascents|
|1||LS: Swimming with the Karp (1)||5.8||11|
|2||LS: Crystal Whipped||5.11c||2|
|3||LS: Sunset Crack||5.11b||10|
|4||LS: Super Sunset Crack||5.12c||0|
|5||LS: No Jam Crack||5.8||8|
|6||LS: Easy Project (1)||5.6||6|
|7||LS: The Arborist||5.6||6|
|8||LS: Mae Day||5.12a||0|
|9||LS: Phil's Solo||5.10a||1|
|24||MS: Sun Burn||5.11d||0|
|25||MS: Priapus Verde||5.11a||2|
|26||MS: Sunset Gun||5.12a||0|
|30||MS: Dark Side of the Moon||5.11a||2|
|31||MS: Frigid Air||5.7||6|
|33||MS: Gone Fishing||5.11d||4|
|35||MS: Slab Right||5.9||0|
|36||MS: Slab Left||5.10a||0|
|39||MS: Steep Flake||5.11c||2|
|41||MS: unknown left of steep flake||5.9 A0||0|
|47||MS: Unknown 1: Block to Slab||5.5||0|
|48||MS: Unknown 2: Flake to Slab||5.7||1|
|49||MS: Unknown 3: Chimney to Slab||5.10a||0|
|54||US: The Streak||5.5||2|
|56||US: Upper Sunset Crack aka USC||5.6||2|
|57||US: Green Face||5.9||1|
|59||US: charmed life||5.12a||2|