Walk L from the Report to Sickbay dihedral until the face ends at a huge boulder, separated from the main crag by a slot that drops off into a chasm overlooking the E. Face of the Oven. Begin at the horizontal crack and traverse L for a few moves to the crack leading up. Above, there are 2 crack systems to choose from; both are nice.
Submitted by: virginiapine on 2006-05-25
Last Modified: 2012-01-26
Route ID: 75219
Starts on tenuous but well protected traverse moves and then the 5.8 crux to gain the main crack. Some wrestling moves in a corner with good handjams make up the rest of the climb. Remember to tape up and that a 60m rope is required to rap down from the tree at the top.
This is a hidden gem. Good gear all the way. Rack with double cams to #3 and some chocks and you can sew it up. Ran it again on toprope from the bottom and maybe then it felt like 5.10. Off the ledge variation Horst describes felt more like 5.8. Go do this route!