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Don't Pro the Flake Bro - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
9 bolts, aliens, RPs Nuts and green and red camalot for the second belay
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Climb combat medic. Do not pro large flake--there is pro below and above. Climb face above and then left to anchors. (90 Ft 12 B/C) Step a few feet right, climb past bolt to crack. follow arching crack to steep overlap.(30 ft 5.10 PG/R) Climb bulge on right side of tree past 2 bolts (11C 70 ft.). It is possible to follow crack after first bolt (11B).

Descent Options:

Rappel. First rap is 98 Ft. NOTE: I RECENTLY RAPPELLED THIS ON A LOW STRETCH ROPE AND WAS 1 FT SHORT OF THE SECOND RAP STATION. RECOMMEND RAPPELLING FROM TREE 20 FT ABOVE STATION.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2008-11-26
Last Modified: 2011-03-02
Views: 884
Route ID: 97150

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dreday3000 on 2012-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great

Great climb. Difficulty builds as you ascend the 1st pitch - crux is difficult and very hard to onsight. I agree pitches 2 and 3 should be combined into one. Upper crux will be hard for shorter climbers. Beautiful belay station at the top of final pitch.

Added: 2012-02-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-11-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

Should be done in two pitches, not three (the first pitch goes to the end of Report to Sickbay, and the second pitch all the way up to the top). First pitch is the money, with hard technical climbing that's in your face for a good 50 feet or so.

Added: 2011-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-11-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Techno expo

Engrossing route. Technically delicious. Took a few tries to see way through crux.

Added: 2011-11-06