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Jaws Chimney - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 27
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Get up into the huge right-leaning bay in the north-facing section of the crag, 20m left of the "Report to Sickbay" dihedral. Ancient pins will be seen soon, where the right-hand side turns vertical - go up and right of them. The original route (5.6) likely finishes by bashing through bushes in the big break in the left wall, but a full rope-length climb can be made by continuing up a low-angle crack in the right wall, over a bush, to a higher-angle slab split by 2 parallel cracks. Go up these, go right on the slab in order to turn the little roof and go up the right-facing dihedral until it ends. Be nice to the pine seedlings at this stance, new since the fire in 2000.

Descent Options:

A short second lead traverses up and right, then do a body-length downclimb (well-protected) and traverse right again over to a pine tree that is likely the original rap point for "Report to Sickbay". Utilize slings here, and the anchors at the half-way p

Submitted by: virginiapine on 2007-07-07
Views: 960
Route ID: 86924

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: virginiapine on 2006-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars What an adventure...

Really fun, discovering that this can be a full ropelength. Just keep to the right....

Added: 2007-07-07