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Wings Of Desire - 5.8

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Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Mixed, a wide range of cams and nuts are needed throughout.
Consensus Ratings
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Wings Of Desire 5.8 *** 80-165' M(3-7b) Located on the Upper West Side of the South Canyon. (A 20 minute hike down the Main Canyon from the parking along the road.) Climbs the arete and shallow corners at the left edge of the rusty tan face to the mid point rap anchors, or set of chains at the top. Can be done as one long pitch or just the excellent bottom half. This is also the descent route for the face. P1 - 5.8 *** 80' M(3b) - This is fantastic mostly trad climbing on great rock, with a couple of bolt protected cruxes. Begin at the lowest point of the arete on the left edge of the rusty tan face. A wide range of cams and nuts are needed. 2 ring anchors are the mid-level belay station (with an extra belay anchor beside them). P2 - 5.6 * 85' M(4b) From the large ledge with the rap anchors continue to the top up the upper slab which is worth doing for the classic mantle move, and as a moderate way to get to the top of the face in one pitch. 2 chain anchors and an extra bolt at at the top lip.

Descent Options:

Rap route or walk off to the north (gully)

Submitted by: applewood on 2014-03-15
Last Modified: 2014-03-22
Views: 163
Route ID: 114865