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Routes : North America : United States : Washington : Central Washington : The Stuart Range : Mt. Stuart : N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart (Great Gendarme var.)

N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart (Great Gendarme var.) - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
G
1/2 inches to 4 inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Long "50 classic" route that includes glacier travel and 20 pitches of climbing on an exposed ridge.

Submitted by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-14
Last Modified: 2007-09-05
Views: 1078
Route ID: 22480

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2013-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars complete north ridge

Opted for the complete N ridge which ended up being a LOT more climbing! left TH at 2:30am. ingalls pass, got lost, stuart pass, goat pass. climbing by 8:50. summited at maybe like 5:45. descended the cascadian death march and it got dark and by 11 we decided to bivy. After a brutal cold night, we hiked up and over some pass and met the trail and back at the car. If I did it again i'd probably just do the upper ridge.

Added: 2013-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Matt_Akers on 2011-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful!

Up to Lake Ingalls, across to Goat Pass, across the Stuart Glacier, up the North Ridge, Down the Cascadian Col, up Longs Peak, back to the trailhead. 1 day push. Left @ 3:30AM back at 8:00PM. Simul-climbed everything but the Gendarme pitches. Words can't describe this route. Absolutely amazing. Bring an iPod for the hiking.

Added: 2011-08-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2008-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gendarme

An exceptionally good route, 14 hours from camp near Ingalls and back. Crossing the Stuart Glacier in Tennis shoes is not advised in late season ice conditions...eep!

Added: 2008-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Long day! Did entire ridge, down Cascadian, over Goat pass, across Stuart Glacier, and bashing through forest and boulder fields back to car in 17 hours.

Witnessed by: Dave M.
Added: 2006-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2006-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fantastic route and the gendarme is STELLAR. Swung leads and simulclimbed some. Layback pitch has good locks, jams and holds w/decent feet. Find fist and forearm jams in the wide crack. Descent is long and tortuous. We left camp in the meadow below Ingalls Lake at 3 AM, hit the glacier at 5 AM, summitted at 2 PM, and got back to camp around 9 PM.

Added: 2006-08-06

... Read all 11 ascent notes