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The Commandho Pillar - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Gear to 3" plus 10 quickdraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

7 pitches of 5.8 to 5.11 face climbing. Just right of Ride The Lighning.

Submitted by: crackjammer on 2003-10-17
Views: 429
Route ID: 43104

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2015-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A fun adventure and better than expected!

We started this route from the ground via heavy bushwhacking in the lower gully to reach the base of the .11b pitch. We felt this pitch was best avoided as it was way harder than anything else on the route and also had some key flakes that were loose and ready to break off. Instead, take the third class ramps in from the left and start on P2 (5.8), or go up to the small tree at the base of P3 (5.10a - best option). Additional heads up! Traversing into the start of the second (5.8) pitch will leave you with no belay and a very difficult to reach 1st bolt! A leader fall here could be real trouble. After clipping the first bolt, it is best to move right, then back left (not obvious). Most available topo's suggest going left from the first bolt into a totally overgrown left facing corner. Not recommended!! The rock quality improves greatly after pitch two and all the other pitches were of good quality and easily protected. We had no trouble rappelling the route with a single 70m rope. Pitch three was a real gem and worth fighting your partner for the lead:).

Added: 2015-07-27