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Straight Talk - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Kjel Swedin and Ed Hart, 1978.
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Gear to 3" with multiples of 1, 2 and 3" pieces.
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This route is located on the right hand side of the main face, just right of the large curved oak tree growing from the base of the cliff. There is a short, broken pillar leaning against the base of this route just to the right of the tree. Start this route by soloing up the slabby outside face of the broken pillar or chimney behind the left side to reach the thin-crack start.

Descent Options:

Two bolts on top (no chains). Move left and rappel from the chains on "Come Back Crack" or walk off climbers left.

Submitted by: lithophiliac on 2010-04-27
Last Modified: 2010-04-28
Views: 524
Route ID: 104559

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: punk_rocker333 on 2010-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cupped hands

The start is pretty tricky and the upper half is all about conserving your pro and resting when you can. I took two blue camalots and wished I would have had one more. Great route and the warm up at the crag.

Added: 2010-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lithophiliac on 2008-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best!

Had a real battle on my hands for the onsight. Starts with a difficult thin section and a high step, followed by awesome hands, then wide hands/fists (crux) finishing with slightly easier hands. I took 3 #3 camalots and used them all (taking 4 would not be overkill). This route would easily be rated 5.11 at Vantage.

Added: 2010-04-27