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Saber, Upper Castle Rock - 5.5

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
To 2.5"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Don't make this your first Trad lead-I did, and my ass is still tight. Up a buttress for 20' (easy) then a long 90' of thrashing in a corner and an exposed traverse, with no real reliable pro, for 20' and a scramble up to the ledge. Bomber turnbuckle anchors. Then up a 5.4 chimney, and a scramble to the top.

Submitted by: valeberga on 2004-05-31
Views: 1130
Route ID: 1816

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Matt_Akers on 2008-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A favorite

A real cruiser. Lots of options on the upper first pitch. Stay out on the face or take the corner. Both are good.

Added: 2011-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: climbn4beer on 2011-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 5.5 gold

great climb! my partner had a bit of trouble finding the traverse ledge so if in doubt go higher and it will be super obvious.

Added: 2011-06-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2010-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Classic route, but not straightforward.

This is a fun, easy route - but might be a little confusing for a new leader. The first pitch is the best - up the corner in the dihedral, but then there is a sizable (at least 20-25') traverse to the left to reach the homemade (but solid) belay bolts on Saber Ledge. The length of the traverse is unusual, and rope drag can be a big issue if people underestimate just how far away the bolts are. From the bolts, there are lots of variations to finish the route - but it's easy and fun.

Added: 2010-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2007-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars _

Great line, some thought-provoking moves. The upper pitch is a blast mostly because you can climb just about anywhere. I placed gear mostly just so my follower knew where to go!

Added: 2007-09-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: delynko on 2007-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars pretty fun

pretty fun route...first pitch is the funnest, but the entire route is gold

Added: 2007-07-28

... Read all 9 ascent notes