Don't make this your first Trad lead-I did, and my ass is still tight. Up a buttress for 20' (easy) then a long 90' of thrashing in a corner and an exposed traverse, with no real reliable pro, for 20' and a scramble up to the ledge. Bomber turnbuckle anchors. Then up a 5.4 chimney, and a scramble to the top.
Submitted by: valeberga on 2004-05-31
Route ID: 1816
This is a fun, easy route - but might be a little confusing for a new leader. The first pitch is the best - up the corner in the dihedral, but then there is a sizable (at least 20-25') traverse to the left to reach the homemade (but solid) belay bolts on Saber Ledge. The length of the traverse is unusual, and rope drag can be a big issue if people underestimate just how far away the bolts are. From the bolts, there are lots of variations to finish the route - but it's easy and fun.