Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Mixed - 6 bolts, plus a full gear rack. Medium cams needed to back up single bolt belay at top.
5.10a Takes a zigzagging line up the main SE face (100' right of the Viper's Mouth). Begin from the large lower ledge with the large pines, climb the short vertical crack at the far right of the ledge. Step right and continue up the slanting cracks left of "Snake Charmer" until; it's possible to traverse left and up to mount the steep headwall on the far left. Traverse right under the second roof, turning it on the far right, above, traverse left again to the final headwall. This is a winding route on excellent rock with interesting moves, and a lot of variety. Full rack needed with lots of long slings to reduce the inevitable rope drag. (A 5.10d ** "Direct" lower variation is possible. From under the middle of the large overhang climb a small apron past loose looking overhanging blocks to a clean steep left facing crack. Layback up the corner and snake your way up the groove above to pull out right onto the slab - continue up the slab to join the regular route for the headwall and upper zigzags.)
Walk off to the east.
Submitted by: applewood on 2012-04-29
Route ID: 111305