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Primus - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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6 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Third route from the left. A small roof after the 1st bolt leads to a crimpy finish. The crux is between the 4th and 5th bolts. Overall a very solid climb.

Submitted by: jookyhead on 2003-12-28
Views: 811
Route ID: 10703

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cashmang on 2009-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars pretty bold, airy, scary .11a

Like the previous poster, it took me a while to get past the crux on this one. The hardest .11a I have climbed at 38, and I wouldn't hesitate to bump it a letter grade. I took numerous whippers on the bolt just below the crux (the one that has the threaded gate bail out loop, which I must confess I had to lower off of after a couple failed attempts), mainly because I was too scared to go for the next clip, which requires a holding onto a small, scary crimper with your left hand. You feel like you are up there way off the deck because of the steeply sloping ground surface, which adds to the airy exposed feel of the route. The route overall is sustained hard 5.10 climbing on the lower half and then pretty sustained 5.11 in the upper half. It'll pump you out for sure if you dilly dally for too long on the wrong holds. It is all slightly overhung past the lower roof move, so move quick!

Added: 2009-09-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: chillipphi on 2007-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars finally got this one

Took me awhile to redpoint this route but it was worth it. My favorite climb at Amazonia.

Added: 2008-02-05