This climb starts on the right side of the areté, in the twin fist cracks, which go at 5.9 individually, and 5.8 together. Most climbers pull they're rope though at the midway sling belay,to avoid rope drag. the thin twin cracks above are quite challenging and fun, and go at 5.11b. There's some expanding rock near the top. The lower part of this climb is worth it even if the top is outside your ability.
Submitted by: krustyklimber on 2002-02-26
Route ID: 9843
Climbed this one in some of the worst heat that Index has ever seen. It was a massive sweat-fest but still a really great route. I felt the crux was near the end but the gear was bomber throughout. Take several small cams in the 1-3 tcu sizes. Largest piece I used was a #1 camalot.