Pitch 1- This aid climb starts on a bolt ladder located on the right side of the main Lower Town Wall, going at A1 (this route can be and has been done clean, NO HAMMERS). The 7 bolt ladder is followed by a nice thin crack (wired nuts work well) (A1) for the remainder of the pitch until belay station is reached. Can opt to rappel or continue on the Slow Children Route (5.10+). This aid route goes free at hard 5.13.
Submitted by: phoenix on 2005-11-24
Route ID: 8630
Went back a week later after aiding it with a buddy and rope-soloed it. Very, very rope-solo-able. Just don't be in the way of some uber stud wanting to free the thing, get on and off and be efficient.
Tried this on Tr after rapping down from Sloe Children. Wicked hard!! Got the 1st and last parts mostly clean, but the middle section will likely never go for me. Still the hardest route I've ever gotten to the anchors on. Those that have led this clean are gods!!