Approach the route by climbing Godzilla and then the second pitch of City Park. Climb directly up the steep corner above the chains. Start is tricky, eases to 5.9+ finger locks in flaring corner, then crux corner near the top.
3 rappels. 60m barely makes it down Godzilla.
Submitted by: krustyklimber on 2007-07-15
Route ID: 8631
This is a perfect classic... the warmup pitches are great then you have one of the best 10d cracks in the country. Loved every second of it and the end desperation sets the standard for Index's solid grades.
Right before I climbed this route someone told me it is the "best climb in the world." Didn't believe it until I climbed it, this crack is amazing! I would bring a couple extra yellow and blue tcu's, you'll want em'.
Did this for the second time in 20 years and I had forgotten just how good it is. I think we were the first ones on this route this year judging from the massive amounts of wet pine needles in some of the jams. Hopefully its a bit cleaner now :). Every time things start to look grim, check for holds away from the crack. The finishing moves are just too cool!!