Skip to Content

Sloe Children - 5.10d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Many (6-8?) small cams, finger-sized. Good wired nut placements can be tricky due to reverse flaring in cracks. (See also: gear notes for Godzilla, City Park p. 2)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Approach the route by climbing Godzilla and then the second pitch of City Park. Climb directly up the steep corner above the chains. Start is tricky, eases to 5.9+ finger locks in flaring corner, then crux corner near the top.

Descent Options:

3 rappels. 60m barely makes it down Godzilla.

Submitted by: krustyklimber on 2007-07-15
Views: 995
Route ID: 8631

10 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 10 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: monicaj on 2010-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Really good

One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Intense the whole time.

Added: 2011-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2010-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finish is intense as the Train Blows By!

This is a perfect classic... the warmup pitches are great then you have one of the best 10d cracks in the country. Loved every second of it and the end desperation sets the standard for Index's solid grades.

Added: 2011-04-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: punk_rocker333 on 2009-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route in the world

Right before I climbed this route someone told me it is the "best climb in the world." Didn't believe it until I climbed it, this crack is amazing! I would bring a couple extra yellow and blue tcu's, you'll want em'.

Added: 2009-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: michalgoatfeet on 2009-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome locks

very fun route right after the second pitch of city park bring lots of small camming devices the crack is parrall sided

Added: 2009-07-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lithophiliac on 2009-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Such a classic route!!

Did this for the second time in 20 years and I had forgotten just how good it is. I think we were the first ones on this route this year judging from the massive amounts of wet pine needles in some of the jams. Hopefully its a bit cleaner now :). Every time things start to look grim, check for holds away from the crack. The finishing moves are just too cool!!

Added: 2009-05-26

... Read all 10 ascent notes