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C. Thug’s Mansion boulder. - V7

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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This was the first boulder cleaned in the “Garden” several classic lines. 1. V2 First problem as you approach the boulder is situated roughly on the South-East. Sit-start on crimps up to the sloper, more crimps, and top-out. 2. V2 “Thug’s Passion” (Right of #1 about 20ft) Start on the obvious jugs at head or shoulder height. Big move to a solid crimp; side pulls and up. a. V5 Sit start to the down and left of #2 on a diagonal crimp. Burl move up to an opposing crimp. Same top-out as #2. 3. V4 (Right of number #2 about 10ft) Sit-start on a solid 2 pad crimp. Moving through crimps to the vertical bulge with under-clings and side pulls on the right side of the bulge, up and top-out. 4. V7 Thug’s Mansion (the obvious tall aręte starting about 4ft from #3). The best problem on this boulder. Start matched on the obvious triangle hold @ waste height. Move right around the aręte to a smallish pinch. Move straight up through the crimps to the lightning bolt hold. Reach right to a sloper and top-out. 5. V3 (Starts right of #4 about 8ft). Left hand on an obvious crimp and right hand side-pull. Straight up, same top-out as #4. 6. V0 Jugs and up.

Submitted by: vscalex on 2004-11-29
Views: 575
Route ID: 62153