The most popular route up The Tooth goes up the South Face along the line of least resistance. 2 short pitches of low 5th class climbing (can be combined), then a pitch of 4th class, and one short pitch of low 5th class climbing to the summit.
Submitted by: illimaniman on 2006-07-26
Route ID: 78370
Led P1 & 2 with 1 hex and 1 HB offset nut per pitch. Scrambled/soloed the rest. 4 raps with 30m twin ropes. Still a ton of snow in early July. Snow just melting out on the summer trail. Returned via winter trail, stream crossings also just melting out.
Plenty of snow still in early June this year. Tricky transition from snow to rock in the approach gully - the snow is pulling away from the rock but hasn't yet cleared a path around the snow. Great climb, can be done in 2 long pitches with some scrambling. There are some fun 5.6ish sections if you're looking to make the climb more interesting. There's still a surprising amount of loose rock on even the frequently climbed parts of the wall. The rap from the base of the wall to the basin below is recommended - but make sure the rope reaches past any moats if there's still deep snow.
I had wanted to do this for a long time. The approach is a bit longer and a little tricky: We underestimated the approach time and had to turnaround before the summit the first time I tried it. Once on the rock it is blocky beautiful rock and scenery. The Seattle Mountaineers are often there teaching classes. Belay points are set up more frequently than needed. You can rap out from bottom of the technical route straight down 60 meters but wear a helmet, there is a small amount of loose rock there.
Fog hindered navigation, but we enjoyed it nevertheless. We rappelled down the steep loose gully from the base of the rock climb. Wear a helmet and have a 60m (30m doubled) rope as the next anchor is exactly 30m below the top anchor. You are back to the talus slope with one more 30m rap. Don't underestimate the approach/exit. It is more arduous than you might expect. A very nice alpine climb in late spring and summer. Avalanche hazard is high in winter. I used very little pro and it is often done solo).