West Arete | Rock Climbing Routes

Routes : North America : United States : Washington : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Eldorado Peak : West Arete

Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock (Trad) Snow

Safety Rating:

PG13

Pitches:

Protection:

Cams and stoppers

Length (ft):

3000

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

This is the long fin that goes from glacier to summit on the west side of Eldorado peak. Approach is the same as the East glacier route. At the slabs in Rousch Creek basin aim for the notch between the Triad and Eldorado Peak. From there descend to the bottom of the Triad glacier. Do not try and cut across! Head north at the bottom of the glacier and cut across the talus around 5800. The arete is obvious at the bottom of the next glacier. Follow the glacier to the gully that leads to the arete proper. From there continue more or less along the arete. A short section traverses to a notch where fixed gear can be a good toprope. Then rappel into the notch and continue climbing around the ridge. Near the top things broaden to 4th and 3rd class climbing until you join the E. Ridge to the summit.