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Southwest Face - 5.9

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Medium rack to 2 1/2"
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Start just left of the prominent crack system going up the middle of the southwest face. Climb a ramp (5.7) to the main crack system. Second pitch follows a slot (5.8) in the my system to a large ledge. Third pitch starts out as a dihedral blocked by a small roof, passed on the right (5.9, small pro). Next three pitches continue up the crack system (mid-5th class). Pitch seven moves right; out of the crack system on low-angled slabs (class 4). Pitch eight is a short 5.7 pitch (steep crack and mantle). Pitch Nine is a hand-and-figertip traverse above a steep, awkward slab (5.8) out to the ridge crest. Four to five pitches of mid-5th class climbing ridge to the summit. Avoid gullies on the right. TO DESCEND- Follow easy down-climbing north and then east until able to descend a glacial remnant back into Marble Creek Cirque.

Submitted by: naturalhigh on 2001-11-29
Views: 650
Route ID: 8634