Fun and varied climbing. Scrambled the 1st pitch, led P2 (5.8), followed half of P3 (5.6) then led the rest of P3 combined with P4 (5.7-5.8). Followed P5 (5.6), Led P6 and P7 combined (5.7-5.8) and P8 (sustained 5.7). Followed P9 and P10 combined (5.5, exposed 5.3) then led P11 (crux felt 5.9, though I missed a key hold that probably would have made it 5.8). Beautiful day on nice rock. Scrambled up and walked off to a second car on top. Brought 9 draws, 4 runners and 3 double runners, and some locking draws for anchors. Skipped about 5 bolts on each of the combined pitches.
Vonda and I had a lot of fun climbing this route on a hot day - nearly 100 degrees in Mazama reported. We started early and climbed in the shade with a nice breeze until the last couple of pitches, when the sun hit us. It was hot but not unbearable on the way down. We had each brought 2 liters of water and both ran out about halfway down. The rapping was heinous because of all of the loose rock on the ledges. Next time, we will definitely have a car or bike to get down. To me, there just seemed to be one 5.9 move on the climb (traverse move on the last pitch), but there was lots of very enjoyable 5.7 and 5.8 climbing. Two Arkansasians (Adams and Lynn) were a couple of pitches behind us all day and had a good time also.
Good day trip for multi-pitch. Camped the night before near the creek down a little ways from the car pull-out. I liked the short distances between some of the pitches to sit down and relax. The route is in the shade until about noon.
This is long route, 13 pitches. The rock is fairly good quality where it needs to be. There are a couple of long "scrambling" sections between some of the pitches and a couple of other places where you need to move the belay a short distance. If not for this, the route would be a classic. It is very well to over bolted. 13 raps on a 60m rope. Some of the pitches have fantastic exposure. Some say this route is over-rated, but there are a couple of pitches with short 5.9 cruxes, and one pitch with sustained 5.9 technical face climbing. Over all a great and worthwhile route.