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North Ridge route info can be found in the Becky Guide. This route like may others is highly fluid. I imagine it goes through constant change. Camped near the Coleman Deming Glaciers you ascend the prominent ridge on the left skyline. Route finding across the glacier is extremely difficult and dicey. We spent the entire afternoon previous to our climb trying to make it go with no luck. I called it "The Maze of Death" because you'd hear this constant barrage of ice exploding somewhere beneath your feet. Once you take the ridge it leads you to a 70 to 80 degree ice cliff, I've heard it can be plastic, but for us it was like honeycomb. We ran a belay up what I guessed would have been 3 pitches, from there the route zigs a few ominous hanging seracs, (moved very quickly through this area), Then we topped out, Vinni, Vidi, Viche. After talking to a couple Hip climbers and watching them spark up a huge Zep. we decided it was time to head back. The descent takes you down the dog route (Grade I), watch for crevasses and stay on the beaten path. The North Ridge is labeled as a Grade III in Becky's Book. I'd call it a classic!
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Sequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.
