an alternative t Liberty Crack;
This route has much less fixed gear than Liberty Crack, though Pitches one, two and four feature nice bolted stances, though hanging. Bring a belay seat or suffer. Pitch four's belay is exposed and hanging, with one 3/8" bolt sloppily placed, backed up by one 1/4" bolt and an old button head bolt.
In the Cascade Select Guide, it recommends pitons for the arch. The arch protects nicely with WC Superlights, HB Offsets, and Aliens/Offsets. There definitely is no need to nail.
Pitch 5 requires surmounting double roofs giving exhilarating exposure and climbing. The pendulum to mantel is EXPOSED and airy. The mantel is facilitated with a good grappling hook.
It's a great route with a lot less free climbing. It should be done more often, and respected as a clean aid climb. Any pitons you bring should be a couple sawed-off angles only.
Submitted by: jplotz on 2006-06-10
Last Modified: 2010-09-13
Route ID: 52709