Skip to Content

Direct East Buttress - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Medium Rack to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

Excellent 10 pitch climb on clean, solid granite. The climb has little bit of everything. The bolt ladders go at 10d. The route is basically a small wall climb, it is dead vertical. Excellent climb.

Submitted by: crackjammer on 2004-03-02
Views: 1295
Route ID: 47960

8 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1996-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route, but not for us

We waited for over three hours at the belay ledge (right before the 10d bolt ladder), while two dudes from Seatle (who had slept on the ledge) took over 3 hours to do this pitch (with their haul bag getting stuck numerous times). Finally passed that after they had done the pitch and fixed a rope for them on the next pitch. They were still on the route (2nd day) when we were back at the car that evening.

Added: 2010-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gschellens on 2008-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fabulous Climb, good intro to Aid

Pitch 1: Solo Pitch 2: easy climbing 5.5/5.6 Pitch 3: really fun 5.9 corner and roof move! (linked with pitch 4, mostly) Pitch 5: AO bolt ladder (mostly good bolts but some sketchy ol' button heads) I recommend freeing the crack at the end of this pitch I think it goes at 5.10a, very fun. Pitch 6: 5.8 face (don't get off route, Scary!) into another bolt ladder. Pitch 7, 8, and 9: easy climbing, wondering, but fun
NOTES: Decent the S. Arite, can be tricky route finding, 1-3 raps. Approach can be confusing to, I just wanted to head straight up to it.

Added: 2008-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: skyhighclimber1 on 2008-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great fun route

got my first 5.9 lead pitch in. followed and wallowed on the two hard (10d/11a). got to the top. First long day. Most enjoyable.

Added: 2008-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Crawdaddy on 2008-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun day

Fun route. :)

Added: 2008-07-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snaffel on 1994-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars beckey route

Great route done with john

Added: 2008-04-02

... Read all 8 ascent notes