Approach to route one is done by driving on Forest Service road 2401 past the trails to Mt. Ellinor to where a washout makes the road dangerous to proceed. There is a wide space for parking at about 47-31.24N and 123-13.959W (NAD83). If you get to the big waterfall and an interesting massive vertical rock wall on the left you have gone about 300’ too far. Directly north of the parking area look for a boot worn path in the brush and proceed up this steep a way trail to where it levels out in a bowl at about 4500 feet. Continue up snow in winter, scree in summer, to where turning right (N) to a ridge takes you to the summit ridge. Circling around the summit block to the right there is a path of sorts on exposed ledges. You can also find an enjoyable class 3+ gully leading directly to the summit. The winter route is more direct to the summit ridge as the steep rock and scree is covered with snow. However, a moat at top of the snowfield may make it impossible to get to the rock on the other side (as it did this year). If that is the case, traverse left across steep snow to flank the moat and proceed up with mixed climbing to the summit ridge. If you are lucky enough to have a clear day views from the summit of the Olympic Mountains are simply beyond words.
The easiest descent is northeast off the summit in scree or snow then circle around the summit pyramid to the right on ledges and loose rock to the ridge and down the summer route.
Submitted by: Pliny on 2008-06-27
Route ID: 94415
Another great alpine climbing adventure in the Olympic Mountains. We tried the Winter route, but after climbing the steep snow got to a moat we couldn't cross so we traversed over to the so called "Summer route" and after negotiating the the easy bergshurnd there we got onto some better snow and rock. 4 hours to summit from car. I rated it R because there have been more deaths here than anywhere in the area. However, most probably could have been prevented with a quick ice axe arrest!