Find the South Couloir by climbing northwest over a treed ridge from climbers bivouac. Avoid a narrow steep dicey bottleneck in the couloir by passing it right to easier ground. Reenter couloir to continue climbing. Nearer the top you will see options for climbing the summit block. There is easy class 3 or 4 rock climbing around to the left or a narrow chute that can be icy in spring. Book says 8 hours from the road. With 6.5 miles and over 6000 feet to gain to the summit from the road, I find that somewhat optometrist. I have climb this the last week in May several times and frequently have found crampons and ice axe essential. Rated I, 3.
Same route down
Submitted by: Pliny on 2011-02-20
Last Modified: 2011-02-21
Route ID: 107918
Very little snow below 5000' and melting fast making the lower couloir a little sketchy. Plenty of good snow above 6000' including a fair amount of icy snow near the summit. Overall route is in good condition. Numerous downed trees on trail but trail is very well marked all the way to the bottom of the couloir.