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Southeast Face - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

600 feet of excellent climbing. Start at base of Little Wing or Cruisin'. At Snag Ledge traverse right to the bolt anchor. Head up the sloping face along the inside (easier) or outside (more exposed). Curves around to the East.

Submitted by: mugnyte on 2002-09-17
Views: 1331
Route ID: 609

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sread on 2013-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great adventure pitches! A+ in the Gorge

Beautiful fall day at beacon. Make sure you start early, this route can get busy at some times with multiple parties.
Crux is the 3rd pitch right of the bat, which is also the money pitch. Great angle and exposure, great rock quality on the slab.
Did the off-width variation on pitch 5, well worth it! I liked having a 4 friend size piece, but not necessary. This rock sucks up nuts beautifully and bomber, smaller alien size and metolius are handy as well.
Enjoy it! 3 stars from me.

Added: 2014-01-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: MrJoe on 2010-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pitch 1

Good route for practicing nut craft, wanders a bit so use a long draws off your pro. Only cam I placed was a #2 at the pull onto the snag ledge, the rest was stoppers.

Added: 2010-08-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Ebb on 2010-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Quite an adventure

This is a very popular route (we climbed on a Friday and were the 2nd of 5 parties to climb all or part of this route). The "company" was helpful though for our first time up this route, as it provided for some valuable "live beta" from the "veterans."

I've read in some guide books that the published ratings for Beacon Rock are a bit "stiff" and I would agree here. At least for a personal first ascent, consider adding a notch to any of the published ratings (i.e. the first pitch felt more like 5.7, the third pitch felt more like 5.8 or even higher if you choose the wrong path to get over the bulge at the start, the fourth through sixth pitches all have some moves that could argueably go for 5.6 - 5.7, etc.)

Expect to commit a FULL day to this climb due to length, crowds and for a first time ascent, route finding.

* Tip - It may be useful to bring radios, or at a minimum discuss rope commands, as there are a few pitches where you will lose sight of your partner and the noise from wind, trains, etc., can make it very difficult to communicate.

Added: 2010-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fishsticks on 2009-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun day

windy

Added: 2009-10-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: fischerkd on 2004-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route, highly recommended for first ascents of Beacon Rock. Crux is accurately described in Portland Rock Climbing guide book, but route finishes with roughly 2 pitches of low 5th class rock. Total pitches 7 rather than 5 as described.

Added: 2004-08-16