Went in a part of two, didn't see a single other climber on the route. Ice was fairly steep and we opted for a little more of a challenge by ascending one of the side walls. Be careful around the cliff! Massive crevasses everywhere on the upper Kautz made for tough nav.. fun route overall!
Used 4 screws per rope team. No pickets. Camped at around 8000 and then moved to 11000 at the top of the turtle snowfield. Short rap off rock step into the chute. Ice tools worked better than mountain axe.
We were the only ones on this route. Ice conditions on the headwall were a little sketchy. We got there at 11am and water was running under the thin layer of ice. I traversed left center to get to better ice. Steeper than I thought it would've been. Perhaps the regular route goes through the ice "coneheads" to the right of the headwall where it looked less steep. Mark & I took 3 days. More info here: http://my.opera.com/semicolin1/blog/show.dml/412246
The ice cliff was in but very sketchy due to snow the previous night, WI2 climb, easy to do with front points and one tool. I've always dreamed of doing rainier and now that it's done I just want to go back