Skip to Content

Kautz Glacier - WI2

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
Ice
Glacier Travel equipment, maybe an ice screw or two in late season or if you climb the icefall.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.60/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

This route ascends the chute to the left of the Kautz icefall directly above Camp Hazard. It is either a snow or ice route depending on the season.

Submitted by: zach on 2004-12-24
Views: 689
Route ID: 62822

Most Recent Photos

8 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty WI3 AD
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sout528 on 2012-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice quiet route

Went in a part of two, didn't see a single other climber on the route. Ice was fairly steep and we opted for a little more of a challenge by ascending one of the side walls. Be careful around the cliff! Massive crevasses everywhere on the upper Kautz made for tough nav.. fun route overall!

Added: 2013-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty WI2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jambnet on 2008-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars alpine/mountaineering

Used 4 screws per rope team. No pickets. Camped at around 8000 and then moved to 11000 at the top of the turtle snowfield. Short rap off rock step into the chute. Ice tools worked better than mountain axe.

Added: 2008-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: semicolin on 2007-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Highly recommended

We were the only ones on this route. Ice conditions on the headwall were a little sketchy. We got there at 11am and water was running under the thin layer of ice. I traversed left center to get to better ice. Steeper than I thought it would've been. Perhaps the regular route goes through the ice "coneheads" to the right of the headwall where it looked less steep. Mark & I took 3 days. More info here: http://my.opera.com/semicolin1/blog/show.dml/412246

Added: 2008-07-19

Ratings
  Difficulty WI2 AD
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iceworm on 2007-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Climb!

The ice cliff was in but very sketchy due to snow the previous night, WI2 climb, easy to do with front points and one tool. I've always dreamed of doing rainier and now that it's done I just want to go back

Added: 2007-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty WI2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sparky on 2006-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars kautz glacier

first time on a glacier, fun


Added: 2007-01-25

... Read all 8 ascent notes